email address


Or you can leave a comment on any of the topics and I’ll get an email and reply….

 Posted by at 9:36 pm

  111 Responses to “CONTACT”

  1. Hi Tim. Regarding your Blisset air cane. You will probably find that the air reservoir is quite corroded internally. This can be an issue with the the modern PCP if you use a pump to charge it.

    • Hi Bev
      Actually I can’t see any rust within – there seem to be a few very small (sub mm) balls adhering to the inside surface but the whole thing is amazingly clean, the only slightly rusted surface is the firing button and the lever that opens the hole for the ball – presumably because they were handled. If I were to test the chamber I would fill it with oil to avoid any stored energy in the compressed air – I did a lot of testing of pressure vessels in my time, but mostly with external pressure, which is much more difficult! The chamber should be good to 1000psi. I must do the calculation on stored energy!

  2. Hi!
    You have a super blog thank you. kan you identify a Cal 8 Jackson shotgun with PILL_LOCK for me?I dont can insert photos here but can send by email!
    Runar Stava

    • Hi Runar,
      Sure I can have a look and see what I can find out about Jackson that might be relevant. I sold my Jackson central fire percussion gun, which I regret!

  3. A bit embarrassing really. The lock was an L and R supplied by track of the Wolf. They call it a ‘John Bailes’ lock. It has a fly mounted behind the tumbler, so it actually rubs on the lock plate. I disassembled the lock for some reason and upon reassembly put the fly in the wrong way round causing similar problems to the one you are having. I spun it around and Bob’s your uncle!

  4. Hi Tim.

    Regarding the ‘fly’ or detent on that Lowe and Son pistol. Do you think it possible that someone has reassembled the lock at some time with the it at 180 degrees out in the plane of your photo. I have a lock where it is possible to assemble it with the fly either way round, but if put in the wrong way exhibits the same problem that you have.


    • Hi Bev,
      That is a good point! It was very difficult to see how it worked as it is, because the sear will hit the detent and not the bent on full cock, so it doesn’t look like a case of wear. One can only wonder why anyone should have removed it in the first place, unless I suppose it was worn and not doing its job the right way round. Looking at it I did wonder if it was a replacement part that was wrong. I will have a go at drifting out the pivot when I get a moment – I did have a gentle tap and it is moving – not clear which side to bash it! Who made the lock you have?

  5. Hi Tim,
    I am writing to you to ask about a part for an old black powder rifle part I am looking for.

    I acquired a 1862 Westley Richards monkey tail rifle, one of 600 Issued to the Colony of Victoria, Victorian Volunteer Rifles.
    It was deactivated many years ago and sadly they through away the percussion Hammer, and cut the post off the Tumbler.
    My rifle barrel, stock and bore etc have all cleaned up well,

    I would like to ask if you or if you are aware of any gunsmiths or vintage parts dealers who maybe able to assist me with a Monkey tail percussion Hammer and tumbler.

    As a blackpowder shooter, I am looking forward to restoring this rifle and one day shoot it in a competition.
    Have a great week,
    Kind regards
    Craig Kinder
    18 Ridge Road. Berwick 3806 Victoria Australia

    • Hi Craig,
      I would try the website of Dyson gunsmiths in UK or Track of the Wolf in US – they may be able to help. I’ve not handled a Monyeytail, so I don’t know if it would be possible to use the hammer from something else, or modify one.
      It is possible that Pedesoli make a reproduction. I’d have a very thorought search on the web with as wide a range of search terms as possible, including images – its surprising what turns up!
      Hope you manage to find something.

  6. Hi Tim
    I’m looking for advice as I have recently purchased a 18 bore flintlock pistol from around 1780 purely for aesthetics, I’m intending to make a box for it but I’ve not a clue what flintlock tools (such as a powder flask) would it include to make it look authentic. Hoping you can help,

    • Hi Duncan,
      Sorry for the delay – yur best bet is to go on an auction site for antique firearms – Bonhams have them, or Holts and find a good photo of something that looks like your pistol. To be quite authentic only duelling pistols would have been cased then, and it was only the start of casing. Also single pistols were almost never cased. That shouldn’t stop you if you fancy casing your pistol – I do the same sometimes, you don’t need to claim it as original.
      Tools would, depemnding on the type of pistol include flask, bullet mould and possibly a loading rod and jag, sometimes a pan brush.

  7. Hello Tim, very interesting site. Recently acquired a double trigger cap lock revolving carbine (Tranter, Birmingham). Purchased unseen from Italy, it is complete but the couriers weren’t careful. My first concern is that the hammer does not lock back although one can feel the sear and hammer slot “slip” past each other with manipulation . Hoping one of your contributors can help /have knowledge of repairing this unique set- up. It appears early as no flash guard over hammer(no drill holes for it. Only has left guard at chamber base.Will eventually like to restore/ re-box etc.
    Will be most grateful for any feedback.
    Regards, Geoff

    • Hi Geoff,
      I haven’t worked on a similar Tranter, although I think I did make a new mainspring for one some time ago. The mechanism of those locks is quite fiddly and not particularly accessible. I can’t think of anyone with existing knowledge although any restorer worth his salt could probably sort it out.

      • i was wondering if you could help
        i have a durs egg ramrod with a small thread on the small end
        the other one has a bullet puller
        the end of the ramrod is only 5mm diameter
        thank you

        • Hi James,
          I can’t visualise what your ramrod is like, can you send me photos – my email is on the CONTACTS tab.

  8. Hi!

    My name is Kimberly and I am a professional photographer.

    I was baffled when I came across copyright-protected images owned by myself at your web-site. If you use a copyrighted images without an owner’s approval, you need to be aware that you could be sued by the copyright owner.

    Check out this document with the links to my images you used at and my earlier publications to get the evidence of my copyrights.

    Download it now and check this out for yourself:

    link removed…………………………………………..
    and a load more c**p……

    • This is a well known plishing attempt – I have had several more or less identical comments from different names – if you google the names you find its spam.
      I leave this here so that anyone else can recognise S**T when they see it! If you try to reply to the email address it gets bounced.

  9. The Wogdon looks good Tim, well worth the time and effort.

    • Hi Bev, On and off about 3 months work – quite a bit of that spent fighting the cnc mill and learning to cast silver!

  10. Regarding the Wogdon pistol project – it has been very informative following your plans, deliberations and work. A quick question about the lock. It has a slot for a safety. Are you planning to make one? The pistol is looking great. Exciting to be at the finishing and engraving stage.

    • Hi John,
      It already had one, its sitting waiting to be put back on. I have made them in the past as they are often missing off restoration projects, its avery fiddly job, especially the little bolt inside and the spring. SOmewhere on the blog I’ve described it, but I am not sure where! Yes – the engraving will be fun if a little fraught as its so easy to slip and gouge out a chunk – bit more practive before I do it!
      Thanks for your interst,

  11. Hi,
    I have a old side by side pin fire shot gun not sure what to do with it leave it alone or send it out to get restored.
    If you would like I can send pic of it to you.
    Thank You.

    • Hi David,
      By all means send me a photo via my email address in contacts, I don’t generally restore breech loaders, but I’m happy to have a look at photos and make suggestions etc.

  12. Hi Tim
    Glad to see you are on the mend.
    Really miss your antique arms restoration etc.
    Interesting to hear about your jobs around the house etc. But as indicated by visitor numbers to your site I think I am not the only one missing your gun related articles.
    Take care

    • Hi,
      I’m sorry not to be putting up gun related stuff – part of the problem is that most of my gun tools and bits are in boxes in the shed while my gun workshop is doing duty as a kitchen, and partly because I have Matthew working on the kitchen and its a full time job keeping him occupied. I will try to put up a few things soon! Tim

  13. Hi Tim,

    I sent an email to you last Thursday at and have since had no reply.

    It read as follows:

    Last week while scuba diving in Ireland, I found this pistol sitting in mud about 5 meters down. I have sent you some photos (attached) in the hope that you might be able to tell me what exactly it is I have. Ideally I’d like to restore it, but I’m not sure if it’s too far gone, in which case I’d probably put it in a frame and hang it on the wall.

    It’s been out of the water for a week now wrapped in bubble wrap. I sprayed it lightly with WD40 to keep it from rusting – I wasn’t sure whether or not to leave it in water? I would very much appreciate your help.

    I also have photographs of the pistol for your reference.

    Thanks in advance.
    Dave McKeon.

    • Hi Dave,
      Sorry for the delay, I do have other aspects of my life to attend to so I can’t guarantee a fast turnaround! You should have got an email earlier today. In short, it’s great as it is, frame it, or make a glass case for it. Trying to restore it would just end up with a second rate mess, wnhoever tried.

  14. Hi Tim. Glad your on the mend.
    Looking forward to our happy days
    at the gun club.
    Stay well Viking

  15. Hello Tim, I have sent you an email regarding an old pistol I have come across and was wondering if you could shed some light on it for me.

    Kind regards


    • I did send an email, Its probably Arab, most likely 19th century. Decorative or for the tourist trade or low quality arm. I’m afraid it has very low value, but a nice old thing to have.

    • Hi,
      I think I already sent you an email.The phos come out very small on my laptop, but my guess is that its Arab, 19th century, possibly a weapon but maybe for the tourist trade or a decoration. In any event rather little value but a fun thing to own.

  16. Hi tim

    Interested in the pair of pistols you have for sale – or similar.

    Do I need an FAC? Mine doesn’t have a relevant slot…



    • HI,
      They don’t need a FAC unles you intend to shoot them.
      I’m afraid at the moment I am unwell and cannot deal with the matter immediately – I will contatc you when I am in a better position.
      Thanks for your patience.

  17. Hi Tim,

    Regarding the tempering of springs, I have had a reasonable amount of success with larger springs floating the hardened spring in molten lead and holding it there for a while as the oxide colour changes to blue. I have also found from my limited experience that when completed the spring should be gently and gradually compressed until full compression is achieved over a period of cycles and not done in one movement. Sorry if I am telling Grandma how to suck eggs.


    • Hi Bev,
      Molten lead would do well although it is possible to overheat it (melting point 327). I eventually used a bit of bar with a hole bored in it (see post) and heated that up and held the spring inside the hole until it went blue. I’ll try the lead next time as I have a pan ready for casting bullets. I agree about working the spring in, I am not sure what its doing metallurgically speaking – possibly giving critical internal strains a chance to re-arrange themselves? Anyway its a good idea to build up to the full strain slowly.

  18. Hello Tim, i believe that the semi pistol grip was known as the “colonial” pattern stock in the 19th century,

  19. Tim, i think you like me are your own worst critic, but then again i also say if it’s not good enough for me why should it leave the workshop.
    Keep up the good work.

  20. Tim, why did you go to the trouble to make a key for the wheelock instead of a spanner to span your lock?

    • Hi Paul,
      Semantics? I was using the vocabulary of the auction houses, and avoiding the confusion with what we now call a spanner, and which would be the wrong thing to use as it would damage the shaft! I’m not sure of the origin of the term ‘span’ for winding – I guess it derives from the span being the width of the human hand?

      • Tim, my comment was based on the origin of the term spanner in the sixteenth century. It is where the modern name comes from, a bar with a square hole in one end to “span” your wheel lock. I have also come across references to span a crossbow, maybe because a “span” in medieval England was a measurement of nine inches? I was not referring to a modern spanner.

        • Hi Paul, I did realise that was the origin of spanner, its just that the shafts of wheellocks are long and could be damaged by a modern spanner so I avoided the word.

  21. Hi Tim,

    Found you on the internet. I am a lover for early English pistols 1680-1780. I build them (scratch) build. But I need to get better with my engraving. I also build early American fowlers/very British and rifles….also need to improve engraving techniques. I feel that I do not properly sharpen them and it creates drag and tearing. I saw that you sell the 1/8 engravers already sharpened and ready to cut. I would like to purchase them and the sharpening jig as well when they are ready for market. Also, any tips or instructions would be greatly appreciated. I plan to watch all of your videos to learn more about the sharpening techniques as well. I am just finishing up a pistol now ready for engraving so if at all possible I would like to get two each engravers ordered.


    • Hi Timothy,
      Good to hear from you, I will try to sort out the Jigs as soon as I get a moment – if you email me at my address ( see contacts) we can sort out the gravers.

  22. Why do you want to restore guns? Only people who enjoy killing would want to do that. Why do you think it is fun to kill? we art the only ones how have a right to be here, there are other ways of controlling animals. Also no matter how good a marksman someone is you can still wound & miss an animal. People who have a conscience & compassion wouldn’t do this.

    • Thank you for your comment.
      See my post of today for a complete repy.
      I’m sure you and I have a conscience and compassion that overlaps at least 95%!

  23. Hello, I have old gun and i’m interested how valuable is it. Where can I evaluation it in paris?

    • Good Evening.
      I don’t know of any antique gun dealers in Paris, but if you send me photographs of it I can at least give you an idea of the possible range of values. Photos of any writing, marks etc and the main views and the lock should give me an idea.

  24. Tim,
    I have a london wire damascus barrel gun It does not have nipples and is in need of other restoration. Do you handle restorations or know itf such a firearm can be restored ?

    • Hi Carl,
      We do restorations from time to time – send me a few photos taken as carefully as you can in good light and I’ll have a look.
      Preferably a side view of the lock, a top view of the breech end of the barrels etc with the nipple holes, an overall view and a view of any particular damage that needs restoration.

  25. Hi Tim. Regarding your latest blog where you mention the slot in the bridle. The flintlock I showed you a couple of weeks ago was nearly identical regarding the safety mechanism, the slot being slightly out-of-line with the slot in the lock plate. The actual internal safety bolt was manufactured so that the bit that engaged with the notch in the tumbler lined up perfectly with the bridle slot but the slot in the lock plate was offset allowing the tab from the sliding safety operating lever on the outside of the lock to locate and be pinned to the internal safety bolt.
    I wondered if the hole in the bridle plate assisted the assembly in some way i.e. by passing a rod through the hole to hold the tumbler in a certain position whilst another operation was being carried out.

    • Hi Bev,
      I am not quite sure from your description what ran in the bridle slot – a protrusion on the internal bolt ?
      On mine the two slots are not parallel, and not aligned. All the safety bolts I’ve seen just run on the lockplate slot.
      I’m not sure where the tumbler would stop if you put a rod in the spare hole – probably around half cock – maybe the point at which the safety bolt engages?
      I’ll have to play some more!

      • Yes, the internal bolt had a lug protruding which ran in the bridle slot. The two slots in mine were not aligned but were parallel.

        • Hi Bev,
          It looks from what you say as if the bridle is not original although everything else fits and there are no spurious holes in the lock plate.

  26. Hi Tim, on the range Sunday and broke my ramrod any chance you could make me one, it’s from a 45 cal Hatfield long rifle, think it’s the same as pedersoli frontier rifle, if you came would be great, will talk about details if it’s possible for you to do, thanks am Mitchell.

    • Hi Alan,
      What is it made of? can it be repaired? is it possible to buy a spare for the Pedersoli – I think they are usually good on spares?
      I’m sure we can make one, its more a question of cost. Could you send me some more details?

  27. Hi Tim. I’ve come across your web site whilst googling DavidBecker. You mention him in several posts.
    Is he still trading?

    I ask, because I have recently purchased a custom stalking rifle built around a Tikka LSA55 in .243win and the barrel is engraved with his name.

    It shoots well, but needs some cosmetic TLC. And I’d like to know a little more about its provonace.

    I’d would welcome a quick chat, or email exchange with David.

    Would you help and pass on this request.

    Thanks Mike

    • Hi Mike,
      Dave Becker is still active – He doesn’t always answer his phone and I’m not sure he does email. I have to see him shortly so will try to arrange something!

      • Hi Tim. Thank you very much for the reply. I had several replies from a similar post that I made on The Stalking Directory,and Steve, a chap who works with him has been in touch and provided some info. I am running with that.
        Best regards Mike.

  28. Hey,

    I may have the wrong impression here but do you do restorations and fixes yourself? Because I have a winchester in serious need of some loving.

    • Hi, I do antiques, and so does Dick, my RFD (firearms dealer) friend who also does work on modern guns.
      If you have something that needs doing, send me details/photos via the email on the CONTACTS page and I’ll have a look at it.

  29. Hi,
    Are the pair of pistols in the box still for sale?

  30. Hi Tim,

    I’m very interested in knowing exactly how it works the Boss three pull turret single trigger.
    Please, could you put more pictures of the single trigger?, and if possible a more detailed explanation of how it works?
    Taking advantage of your kindness and knowledge, have photos of the single trigger of Purdey and Holland & Holland side by side?

    Many thanks in advance.
    Best Best regards,

  31. I have an old flintlock postal that need attention and overhauled if possible thanks

    • Hi, Send me some photos at the email address on ‘contacts’ and we can discuss.
      Thanks for your interest.

  32. Regards the sensitive plant. It seems to have an awful lot of foliage for such a small root system. Have you considered pruning.

  33. Just stumbled over this french site:
    Thought it could be interesting.

    • HI Jeorg,
      Thanks for the input. It is interesting, and good pics, but what it doesn’t say is that the French bought a couple of thousand Warner Carbines after the American Civil War, and a large amount of ammunition, but unfortunately the Carbines were chambered for the Sharps cartridge and they bought the old .52 Warner ammunition (or possibly the other way round, I haven’t got the book here), so they had to sell of the carbines very cheaply!

      I ought to finish the breecblock of mine!

  34. Hi Tim
    Your site is absorbing and provides a lot of useful information.
    Like many other people I find your diary so true to life and you might even consider writing a book?
    I have a four barrel flintlock turnover pistol with a wood stock inlayed with silver wire.
    Some wire is absent and my question is would you advise having a go at replacing it myself or recommending a specialist.
    I have not seen any detail on your site regarding this type of restoration.
    Best Regards

    • Hi Chris,
      Thanks for the appreciative comments – My colleague Dick has done several silver inlay restorations, I haven’t done much apart from trying it on a piece of walnut. I would probably get Dick to do it if it came my way. But I could give a better answer if I saw a couple of photos of the pistol – in the end these things come down to whether a proposed course of action is more likely to increase rather than decrease the value – either monetary or historic, and that depends on the where it sits on the scale of value and quality. And that is anyway a subjective judgement.
      If you send a the photos I’ll ask Dick and get a rough price – unfortunately there will be a two week delay as I’m off to Cornwall tomorrow – but on the timescale of the pistol’s life that is but the batting of an eyelid!


      • Hi Tim
        I enclose views of the missing silver inlay.
        The pistol is quite an interesting example with no maker or other identifying marks.
        I think it is probably continental?
        Getting together some items to take to the Birmingham fair tomorrow.
        Regards chris

        • Thanks for the views ( by email). I think teh gun itself is probably Birmingham or London, but may have been decorated abroad.

  35. Tim, Your comment about the brown bess is interesting. I have one with a bit of a mixture of furniture (it has two trumpet pipes, an intermediate and tail pipe), a Tower lock without acceptance stamps, and an ordnance barrel with proof marks. What is odd is that is stocked in beech rather than walnut and you can just make out the marks from a float on the butt. The dealer it came from said he had bought it in Sweden. It seems the British government were issuing muskets to various countries fearing that Napoleon might invade them and basically ran out. Instead they sent ‘kits’ of parts to various places so that they could be made up and stocked locally. I have assumed mine is one assembled in Scandinavia. It is possible the one you looked at might well be made up in a similar way somewhere.
    Ian B

  36. Hi Tim,

    Sorry to hear about the sear spring on your Twigg.
    As a matter of interest what is the trigger release pressure without the spring?


    • Hi Bev,
      I didn’t check it – but probably quite light – I’m thinking that most of the pull came from the sear spring – there is a difference between spring and spring plus full cock bent of maybe 2 lbs -I’ll try without the spring next time I get the gun out.

  37. Hi Tim,
    Regarding your Twigg’s heavy trigger pull. Another way to reduce the trigger weight in this case would be to extend the sear nose length. Although this would mean the cock would pull back a few more degrees, it would have the effect of changing the relative angle of the bent in the tumbler and stop the tendency to compress the mainspring when pulling the trigger.


    • Hi Bev,

      The cock is currently as far back as it will go – it only just goes back far enough to slip into the bent – beyond that the tumbler is below the edge of the lockplate etc etc.
      I did in fact wonder whether to shorten the nose of the sear to reduce the cock travel a bit, but I’d obviously have to change the contact angle even more. I’ll keep that option in case I overdo the angle change!
      Its a good thought though – I must remember it in future cases. Looking at the angle of engagement etc with the microscope its actually difficult to see why its quite so heavy – I’m going to do a bit of measuring with some weights so I can measure the improvement – I think 3 lbs is a good shotgun pull?


  38. Hi Tim
    I thoroughly enjoy this site.
    I have a pair of French 1777 cavalry pistols by Mauberge. They are slightly shorter than usual 1777 pistols and I think they are one of the 83 ‘special’ pairs made by Mauberge. See following taken from the Royal Armouries website:
    ‘A Model 1777 was also produced for officers. Production numbers of the officer variant were considerably lower. 138 pairs were manufactured at Charleville and 85 pairs at Maubeuge. This variant was lighter than the cavalry trooper version, and between 1-3 cm shorter’

    They both need a deep clean and one needs a new top job and screw and a repair to the stock. Both are missing ramrods.
    Would this work be of interest to you?
    kind regards
    ps: I have email yo in the past using your email address but got no response so I’m not sure if they are getting through.

    • Hi Nick,
      Sorry you didn’t get a response – I thought I had replied, but clearly didn’t.
      The work on the pistols looks pretty straightforward – I’ll sort out an estimate when I talk to Dick next as we’ll share the work.
      They are an interesting pair and should come up looking good.
      I’ll get back to you in a few days – chase me if you don’t hear from me!
      If we do go ahead with the work I would like to put the job on the website, but of course only if you are happy with that – no names of course.


  39. Hi,

    I have a musket that’s been the family for years. It’s been taken apart for years but as far as I know all the original parts are there, they just need putting back together. Also where it’s been stored the front has been broken which will also need fixing. I was wondering if it’s able to be restored and how much it might cost? Attached are pictures of the piece.

    • Hi Aaron,

      I am not sure if you can send photos with a comment, and I certainly haven’t worked out how to find them! Could you post them to my email address ( see CONTACT ) – its tim at this site and I’ll have a look and see if I can give you an idea of the cost of restoring it.

      Thanks, Tim

      • Hello, I’m sorry, but I couldn’t read your email address. I have inherited some shotguns from my father, an army and navy and a parr bros shotgun, however I couldn’t find any information whatsoever on the internet regarding the parr bros and I was wondering if you might be able to shed any light on it? My email is davehawkins4522@gmail, I look forward to hearing from you
        Regards Dave Hawkins

        • Hi Dave,
          The internet is a surprisingly poor source of info on old guns, mostly I think because its an older generation minority interest, and therefore no-one is motivated to put stuff on – which is one reason I spend time putting random antique firearms related things on the web! Most of the available information is in books, some recent some old, some very expensive and difficult to come by, some easily found. I can find 2 references to PARR – one in Birmingham 1799 – 1807 at Charlotte St and several in Liverpool between 1765 and 1820, so no references in the percussion era. If you send me some photos of the gun (is it flint of percussion?) I might be able to help more – also any proof marks or makers marks under the barrel.
          You can send me photos at tim@ followed by the website address (without the www)

  40. Hi.

    I have an old (what appears to be) mid 19th Century Whitworth rifle/musket with hexagonal bore which is riddled with rust. I would like to properly identify it and know how to clean it up as well as discussing if you are able to get hold of missing parts for me.
    I have already started with wd40 and smooth sand paper to remove dirt and rust, however, I am reluctant to continue as I fear removing any etched detail or metal inscription. Are you able to help? I’m happy to send you some pictures…

    Best, Eddie

    • Hi Eddie,
      You are right to hang back on the sandpaper. If you want to go to the trouble of setting up the gear then electrolytic derusting is the very best way ( see post in ARTICLES Beginner’s guides… ) or you could try one of the phosphoric acid based rust removers – like Jenolite – they should eat the rust but not the metal. Similarly Boracic acid, sold in chemists(?) as the basis for eyewash, will eventually eat rust but you may need to leave things in a fairly strong solution for days – It will slightly etch any bright surfaces so may not be ideal. When /if you do get to the stage of mechanical rust removal then fine steel wool is the safest way.

      As far as parts are concerned, they would probably need to be made specially to fit, although it might be a that they were standard military parts – military arms are a bit outside my normal field, but if you send me photos I’ll see if I can throw any light on your gun, and come up with more suggestions for renovating it.

      Thanks for contacting me,

      • Hi Tim,

        Thanks for getting back to me so promptly – some sound advice there and much appreciated! I would certainly like to send you some pictures if possible. How should do this (do you have a direct email I can send to as attachments?)?

        In the meantime I will certainly check out your articles about electolytic derusting.

        Many thanks,

        • Hi Eddie

          You can send them to the email address written in the picture on the Contact page – I don’t put my email on the site in machine readable form as it gets used for spam
          You can send it to tim@ the website address ( without the www).
          I look forward to getting pictures.

  41. Hi, A friend gave me an old black powder rifle that is missing the firing mechanism (hammer and side plate), which I would like to replace if it all possible. I can’t see any markings on it at all, but written in pencil on the stock is Birmingham proof 1840. It’s the type of gun that would use a cap. If I were to send you a photo, would you be able to tell me if it’s at all possible to find the missing parts and possibly identify the gun? I’m hoping that perhaps it was a common gun and that there may still be bits for it out there.

    Steve in France

    • Hi Steve,

      I can probably give you an idea if you send me photos – the maker’s name was usually on the lock and often along the barrel.
      The proof note comes from marks that were stamped on the underside of the barrel when the gun was proofed.


  42. Hi, i am a metal detector and i fund in a brass screw key (at lease look like that) with the name TWIGG on one side and on the other one says ENGLAND.

    Don’t know what it is.

    my email is

    if you know about old weapons write to me and i will show photos of it.Thank you.

    • Hi,

      I am interested – can you send me a photo and I’ll see if I can identify it.
      You can sdend it to the email on the contacts page.

  43. Good day. I have recently purchased a lovely 1863 Tranter revolver and was wondering if you are able to fix the timing on such revolvers.
    Many thanks.

    • Hi Andy,
      Is it an 1863 .44 Army Rimfire like the one in my ‘Garden Find’ post?
      I’m probably not the best person to do it, but my friend Dick might be just the man to fix it – I’ll ask him tomorrow ot Thursday – we are going up to Holts then to collect my guns and get rid of some stuff.

  44. Tim. The hairy carrots and the wandering line looks to me like a moth . The hairy parts might be antennae and the wandering line may be the outline of the wing……maybe. Fred

  45. hello there! my namn is alfons anteros and i just have a quick question for you. i recently got a flintlock pistol for xmas from my grandpa and i want to restor it to working shape, but i dont know how to, and i dont know if there are multiple versons of diffrent flintlocks. if there are, how do i figur out what kind of gun i have?

    best of reguards, Alfons Anteros

    • Hi Alfons

      Can you send me some pictures of your flintlock and I’ll try to help. Where did it come from, and where do you live?

  46. Hello sir , I got some antigue guns for restoration, how can I reach your store, I live at enfield town , north london..I hope I hear from you soon…selim uygur mobile, 07404030405

    • Hi Uygur,

      Thanks for your email. I am sorry that I do not do commercial restoration, and do not have a store.
      I am sorry that I cannot help you with this request.


  47. Hi Tim
    I read your article in the Black Powder Magazine and as an aspiring tube lock shooter I seek more information as offered in the article.
    To date I have obtained suitable brass tubing now cut to length and discovered it collapses in a satisfactory way in the locks.
    Can you explain how you complete the priming and where is the fulmate mixture is obtainable ?
    All information would be appreciated.
    Tony Clark 1090 Muzzle Loaders

    Sent from my iPad

  48. Hi,

    love the look of your work especially the Perrins, i have one that is in need of attention i replay don’t want to become a wall hanger

    • realised I hadnt replied to your email. There is a group of people interested in Perrins – you probably came across them in your web search.

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