CONTACT

 

email address

 

Or you can leave a comment on any of the topics and I’ll get an email and reply….

 Posted by at 9:36 pm

  32 Responses to “CONTACT”

  1. Tim, Your comment about the brown bess is interesting. I have one with a bit of a mixture of furniture (it has two trumpet pipes, an intermediate and tail pipe), a Tower lock without acceptance stamps, and an ordnance barrel with proof marks. What is odd is that is stocked in beech rather than walnut and you can just make out the marks from a float on the butt. The dealer it came from said he had bought it in Sweden. It seems the British government were issuing muskets to various countries fearing that Napoleon might invade them and basically ran out. Instead they sent ‘kits’ of parts to various places so that they could be made up and stocked locally. I have assumed mine is one assembled in Scandinavia. It is possible the one you looked at might well be made up in a similar way somewhere.
    Ian B

  2. Hi Tim,

    Sorry to hear about the sear spring on your Twigg.
    As a matter of interest what is the trigger release pressure without the spring?

    Bev

    • Hi Bev,
      I didn’t check it – but probably quite light – I’m thinking that most of the pull came from the sear spring – there is a difference between spring and spring plus full cock bent of maybe 2 lbs -I’ll try without the spring next time I get the gun out.
      Tim

  3. Hi Tim,
    Regarding your Twigg’s heavy trigger pull. Another way to reduce the trigger weight in this case would be to extend the sear nose length. Although this would mean the cock would pull back a few more degrees, it would have the effect of changing the relative angle of the bent in the tumbler and stop the tendency to compress the mainspring when pulling the trigger.

    Bev

    • Hi Bev,

      The cock is currently as far back as it will go – it only just goes back far enough to slip into the bent – beyond that the tumbler is below the edge of the lockplate etc etc.
      I did in fact wonder whether to shorten the nose of the sear to reduce the cock travel a bit, but I’d obviously have to change the contact angle even more. I’ll keep that option in case I overdo the angle change!
      Its a good thought though – I must remember it in future cases. Looking at the angle of engagement etc with the microscope its actually difficult to see why its quite so heavy – I’m going to do a bit of measuring with some weights so I can measure the improvement – I think 3 lbs is a good shotgun pull?

      Tim

  4. Hi Tim
    I thoroughly enjoy this site.
    I have a pair of French 1777 cavalry pistols by Mauberge. They are slightly shorter than usual 1777 pistols and I think they are one of the 83 ‘special’ pairs made by Mauberge. See following taken from the Royal Armouries website:
    ‘A Model 1777 was also produced for officers. Production numbers of the officer variant were considerably lower. 138 pairs were manufactured at Charleville and 85 pairs at Maubeuge. This variant was lighter than the cavalry trooper version, and between 1-3 cm shorter’

    They both need a deep clean and one needs a new top job and screw and a repair to the stock. Both are missing ramrods.
    Would this work be of interest to you?
    kind regards
    Nick
    ps: I have email yo in the past using your email address but got no response so I’m not sure if they are getting through.

    • Hi Nick,
      Sorry you didn’t get a response – I thought I had replied, but clearly didn’t.
      The work on the pistols looks pretty straightforward – I’ll sort out an estimate when I talk to Dick next as we’ll share the work.
      They are an interesting pair and should come up looking good.
      I’ll get back to you in a few days – chase me if you don’t hear from me!
      If we do go ahead with the work I would like to put the job on the website, but of course only if you are happy with that – no names of course.
      Regards

      Tim

  5. Hi,

    I have a musket that’s been the family for years. It’s been taken apart for years but as far as I know all the original parts are there, they just need putting back together. Also where it’s been stored the front has been broken which will also need fixing. I was wondering if it’s able to be restored and how much it might cost? Attached are pictures of the piece.

    • Hi Aaron,

      I am not sure if you can send photos with a comment, and I certainly haven’t worked out how to find them! Could you post them to my email address ( see CONTACT ) – its tim at this site and I’ll have a look and see if I can give you an idea of the cost of restoring it.

      Thanks, Tim

      • Hello, I’m sorry, but I couldn’t read your email address. I have inherited some shotguns from my father, an army and navy and a parr bros shotgun, however I couldn’t find any information whatsoever on the internet regarding the parr bros and I was wondering if you might be able to shed any light on it? My email is davehawkins4522@gmail, I look forward to hearing from you
        Regards Dave Hawkins

        • Hi Dave,
          The internet is a surprisingly poor source of info on old guns, mostly I think because its an older generation minority interest, and therefore no-one is motivated to put stuff on – which is one reason I spend time putting random antique firearms related things on the web! Most of the available information is in books, some recent some old, some very expensive and difficult to come by, some easily found. I can find 2 references to PARR – one in Birmingham 1799 – 1807 at Charlotte St and several in Liverpool between 1765 and 1820, so no references in the percussion era. If you send me some photos of the gun (is it flint of percussion?) I might be able to help more – also any proof marks or makers marks under the barrel.
          You can send me photos at tim@ followed by the website address (without the www)
          Tim

  6. Hi.

    I have an old (what appears to be) mid 19th Century Whitworth rifle/musket with hexagonal bore which is riddled with rust. I would like to properly identify it and know how to clean it up as well as discussing if you are able to get hold of missing parts for me.
    I have already started with wd40 and smooth sand paper to remove dirt and rust, however, I am reluctant to continue as I fear removing any etched detail or metal inscription. Are you able to help? I’m happy to send you some pictures…

    Best, Eddie

    • Hi Eddie,
      You are right to hang back on the sandpaper. If you want to go to the trouble of setting up the gear then electrolytic derusting is the very best way ( see post in ARTICLES Beginner’s guides… ) or you could try one of the phosphoric acid based rust removers – like Jenolite – they should eat the rust but not the metal. Similarly Boracic acid, sold in chemists(?) as the basis for eyewash, will eventually eat rust but you may need to leave things in a fairly strong solution for days – It will slightly etch any bright surfaces so may not be ideal. When /if you do get to the stage of mechanical rust removal then fine steel wool is the safest way.

      As far as parts are concerned, they would probably need to be made specially to fit, although it might be a that they were standard military parts – military arms are a bit outside my normal field, but if you send me photos I’ll see if I can throw any light on your gun, and come up with more suggestions for renovating it.

      Thanks for contacting me,
      Tim

      • Hi Tim,

        Thanks for getting back to me so promptly – some sound advice there and much appreciated! I would certainly like to send you some pictures if possible. How should do this (do you have a direct email I can send to as attachments?)?

        In the meantime I will certainly check out your articles about electolytic derusting.

        Many thanks,
        Eddie

        • Hi Eddie

          You can send them to the email address written in the picture on the Contact page – I don’t put my email on the site in machine readable form as it gets used for spam
          You can send it to tim@ the website address ( without the www).
          I look forward to getting pictures.
          Tim

  7. Hi, A friend gave me an old black powder rifle that is missing the firing mechanism (hammer and side plate), which I would like to replace if it all possible. I can’t see any markings on it at all, but written in pencil on the stock is Birmingham proof 1840. It’s the type of gun that would use a cap. If I were to send you a photo, would you be able to tell me if it’s at all possible to find the missing parts and possibly identify the gun? I’m hoping that perhaps it was a common gun and that there may still be bits for it out there.

    Steve in France

    • Hi Steve,

      I can probably give you an idea if you send me photos – the maker’s name was usually on the lock and often along the barrel.
      The proof note comes from marks that were stamped on the underside of the barrel when the gun was proofed.

      Tim

  8. Hi, i am a metal detector and i fund in a brass screw key (at lease look like that) with the name TWIGG on one side and on the other one says ENGLAND.

    Don’t know what it is.

    my email is 14metalgold@gmail.com

    if you know about old weapons write to me and i will show photos of it.Thank you.

    • Hi,

      I am interested – can you send me a photo and I’ll see if I can identify it.
      You can sdend it to the email on the contacts page.
      Tim

  9. Good day. I have recently purchased a lovely 1863 Tranter revolver and was wondering if you are able to fix the timing on such revolvers.
    Many thanks.
    Andy

    • Hi Andy,
      Is it an 1863 .44 Army Rimfire like the one in my ‘Garden Find’ post?
      I’m probably not the best person to do it, but my friend Dick might be just the man to fix it – I’ll ask him tomorrow ot Thursday – we are going up to Holts then to collect my guns and get rid of some stuff.
      Tim

  10. Tim. The hairy carrots and the wandering line looks to me like a moth . The hairy parts might be antennae and the wandering line may be the outline of the wing……maybe. Fred

  11. hello there! my namn is alfons anteros and i just have a quick question for you. i recently got a flintlock pistol for xmas from my grandpa and i want to restor it to working shape, but i dont know how to, and i dont know if there are multiple versons of diffrent flintlocks. if there are, how do i figur out what kind of gun i have?

    best of reguards, Alfons Anteros

    • Hi Alfons

      Can you send me some pictures of your flintlock and I’ll try to help. Where did it come from, and where do you live?
      Tim

  12. Hello sir , I got some antigue guns for restoration, how can I reach your store, I live at enfield town , north london..I hope I hear from you soon…selim uygur mobile, 07404030405

    • Hi Uygur,

      Thanks for your email. I am sorry that I do not do commercial restoration, and do not have a store.
      I am sorry that I cannot help you with this request.

      Tim

  13. Hi Tim
    I read your article in the Black Powder Magazine and as an aspiring tube lock shooter I seek more information as offered in the article.
    To date I have obtained suitable brass tubing now cut to length and discovered it collapses in a satisfactory way in the locks.
    Can you explain how you complete the priming and where is the fulmate mixture is obtainable ?
    All information would be appreciated.
    Regards
    Tony Clark 1090 Muzzle Loaders

    Sent from my iPad

  14. Hi,

    love the look of your work especially the Perrins, i have one that is in need of attention i replay don’t want to become a wall hanger

    • realised I hadnt replied to your email. There is a group of people interested in Perrins – you probably came across them in your web search.

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